Arriving in Perth the day before Beth was due to fly in (we like to refer to it as “just in time travelling”) we navigated our way through the traffic of the “big smoke” on our way to Ferns house. I had a few thoughts on the way there, including how narrow the lanes seemed after so long in the wide open spaces of the country, how we would be welcomed by Fern (a lady I had only met for 10 minutes in Darwin) and primarily, how difficult it may be to actually get the van onto its intended spot on her driveway. Roadhouses, rest areas and camping spots are generally all quite large, with plenty of room to turn, adjust angles and move around easily, but the only experience we had backing the van into a driveway was the day we picked it up and had to reverse it up to Hayley’s parent’s house!

Suffice to say that was some experience, at that point we had never even reversed the van together, we had only just completed the training course with some basic tips (but not how to reverse up an angled driveway with cars parked all over the neighbourhood!) and at least half of Hayley’s family flew out of the front door like bee’s to the honeypot to “help!” and welcome us into our new home. In the end, after what I can now safely say was a complete fluke, we got the van up that driveway seamlessly (but not without throwing all of our “calm and considerate” training out the window – sorry Hayley!). I was keen to avoid a similar incident (after all we now had our argue-free method down pat!), so I was hoping for wide streets, plenty of access and no watching ensemble!

Without the context of the item itself it’s always hard to estimate whether something will fit into a certain space, especially when that something is 8.3m long from tail to tip (without the car!). After going the long way round the streets to open up the preferred reversing angle and preparing ourselves to block the road for a bit (fortunately not in peak hour) we were able to squeeze the van into Ferns second driveway, level ourselves and unhitch as quickly as possible. We may well have been the first caravan this neighbourhood had ever seen, but we were able to get ourselves out of the way and operational without too many issues!

Fern, who was out sailing for the afternoon of our arrival, had left us instructions for getting into the house and had even whipped us up a meal in case we were hungry (easing some of my concerns that she had made an invitation she would have liked to take back!). Soon we were joined by Catherine (who had heard there was a “housewarming” party on) and we celebrated arriving into Perth with some champagne and wine on Ferns balcony before being joined by a group of Ferns friends for our impromptu welcoming party which rocked on until 3am! With the kids sleeping in the living room and us in the guest room we made ourselves at home over the coming days and enjoyed the wonderfully gracious hospitality of Fern, her family and friends as we joined their wonderful and incredibly sociable lives.

Not wanting to waste a moment with Beth we picked her up early the next morning and made our way to Fremantle to catch a ferry over to Rottnest Island. As a festival was on the following day our trip options were limited (the always tough summer accommodation was impossible so it could only be a day trip) and without bikes for the kids, or enough time to really see everything by bike anyway, we jumped onto a tour bus. The tour took us around the entire island, stopping at numerous points of interest such as Sea Eagle nests and sheltered bays, providing us with a great overview of this spectacular location. It wasn’t long out of town that we were all happy we didn’t take the bike option, as the rolling hills and distances would probably have been beyond us, just as it seemed they were for many other bikers “resting” around the island! If we had some more time (and a few less drinks the night before) this would be a great option, but as it was we definitely made the right choice!

 

At the lighthouse we were treated to some excitement in the pursuit and capture of a Dugite Snake (part of the deadly Brown Snake family), which had snuggled into this popular tourist stop and didn’t seem keen to leave! I had never even heard of this type of snake, but the way the Ranger was handling its capture made it clear that it wasn’t one to be messed with! Also not to be messed with (but infinitely more cute!) are the Quokka’s, which are part of the same Macropod family as Kangaroos and Wallabies but are smaller and have better climbing abilities! Despite being mainly nocturnal, you don’t have to work too hard to find Quokka’s on Rottnest, although the “wilder” Quokka’s who exist outside the populated areas look in much better health than the “tame” ones that roam the town square feeding off scraps. Although you can be fined for touching them that hasn’t stopped the latest internet sensation “Quokka Selfies” from taking off internationally (just Google it!). We were happy to observe them in their natural habitat rather than try to strike a pose with any of them, especially when we found a Mum and her baby nestled under a shrub!  

After taking in the relaxed way of life and enjoying some lunch and playtime we hopped back on the ferry for the return trip. The kids and I dropped Hayley and Beth off at the hotel to meet up with their friend Leanne, who now lives in Margaret River and had come up for the night so they could enjoy a fancy dinner at the renowned Nobu at the Crown Complex. After a great night of cocktails, amazing food and great catch-ups (luckily inside for it bucketed with rain outside and the kids and I, unable to get into the house, slept in the van) we met up again the next morning in Fremantle for a wander around the delightful markets, where I helped myself to a well-earned early lunchtime beer (we are still on holidays after all!) and Denver insisted on buying Beth a birthday present of expanding water beads.

Fremantle is a popular part of Perth and it’s not difficult to see why. Beth took Denver on a tour of the Fremantle Prison while the rest of us explored the harbourside area. By the time Denver and Beth were back we were watching a b-boying dance off which had been arranged between ten local competitors and some of Perth’s biggest b-boy stars. It was highly entertaining and very interesting to watch these guys show strength, agility and showmanship in this face-to-face battle. By the end of it Denver and April were having their own face-off in the park as the infectious beats and energy took hold!

After the days fun adventures we were looking forward to heading out that night to watch the Rugby World Cup final. Fern and a group of her friends had arranged for us to join them at a private room downstairs at “Steve’s” an establishment that since 1908 has become a Perth institution for the area. As it was a midnight kick-off Hayley and Beth headed home before the game, but I stayed up drinking beers in the cellar with a good mix of Kiwi’s, who were soon in fine form as the game swung their way. It was a bit of a disappointing end to what had been a great tournament for the Aussies (and a great night out) but you cannot deny the All-Blacks are the dominant force in world rugby at the moment and deserve to have won! The next morning we were party to Perth’s “2 degrees of separation” (a narrower version of 5 degrees) as I had a text from one of my best friends Kris (and Shane) who were now living in Perth and had seen me appear in a friends Facebook post the night before. As it turns out, (it’s complicated but stay with me), Shane and Bruce (who is Ferns friend and the reason she was in Darwin), are great mates and in fact Kris and Shane had planned to head up to Darwin with Bruce, but didn’t quite make it! If they had Hayley would have quite likely gone out on Bruce’s boat with Kris and Shane, which, while I am no “separation expert,” may even only be 1 degree (or none as they were together?)!

Continuing our “all action” start to our Perth stay, we were soon out “Trick or Treating” for Halloween with Chelsea, Glen and Peta (who had kindly watched the kids the night before!) as well as the kids Darcy, Lucas and Harry. The streets of Dianella were transformed into a sea of Orange and Black as hundreds of kids run around the neighbourhood gathering lollies, resulting in more than one household having to make an emergency dash for additional “candy” supplies! The kids quickly filled up their sacks with more lollies than can be good for anyone and with the sugar high keeping them mildly hyperactive for the rest of the night we visited some amazing displays of creativity where entire yards, garages or sections of houses had been converted into cobweb, eyeball and pumpkin lantern filled dungeons of doom! What a great event and a fun way to spend the last night of Beth’s stay!

The following day we were taken on a guided tour of the Swan Valley with both families packed into Chelsea and Glens Tarago. Home to a host of fantastic places to play, eat and drink we had a great time despite some moments of rain, stopping at the Margaret River chocolate factory for a few samples and some delicious chocolate treats (including the most amazing hot chocolate the kids have ever seen!) before heading to lunch at the Feral Brewery, which despite the name, made some delicious food and great beers! In the afternoon we visited Mandoon Estate, which has something for everyone as it combines a boutique winery with a great brewery and wonderful art-filled grounds for the kids to run around in. Spending time with Cousin Chelsea and her family was one of the main focuses for Hayley when coming to Perth and it’s no wonder as these guys are an amazing family and great fun to be with!

Needing a rest after all the action the next few days were a bit quieter with some of the highlights being an early Christmas parade, playing Uno and “Speed Uno” with Catherine, Denver riding with Fern on her powered scooter down the street and both Hayley and I heading out onto the water with Fern and some friends for some sailing. While Hayley had a good time out on the water she was happy for me to head out at the next opportunity, which turned out to be a great afternoon as we somehow managed to win on handicap (the biggest handicap was most likely me!). Sailing is something I used to enjoy now and then (mostly with my Dad) but I haven’t done it for a while, despite my general love of the water. It’s a nice way to spend the afternoon, which is probably why Fern and her core group of friends can often be found out on the water at one club or another enjoying a sail and all the social frivolity that comes with it!

During the time we had been in Perth, Charlotte had also been in WA, visiting her brother Tim (Hayley’s Uncle) on his farm down south (a place called Jerdacuttup, which was also on our itinerary when we left Margret River). With her visit to the farm and Esperance complete, Charlotte came back to Perth and Ken flew in for a few days, to have a catch-up with us as well as the rest of the family relations that live over here. 

We spent an enjoyable week with them with plenty of extended family get-togethers and visits to local attractions. We spent a day at Whiteman Park and the excellent transport museum (including the Thomas look alike “Ashley” and a fuel pump that the kids loved for some reason!), explored Hillarys Boat Harbour, where the kids played in the sand and enjoyed a visit to the local cold-rock ice creamery where April tried chewy sour worms blended into her ice-cream (let’s just call it a learning experience!) and the boys enjoyed a day out at the WACA. Attending the first day of the second test with New Zealand we watched some great batting as David Warner knocked up a double century and Australia amassed 544 runs, with all kinds of records being broken along the way! In the soaring heat we were glad to find a spot with some shade, as a day in the full Perth sun is more than most can take!

 

With Ken and Charlotte returning to Sydney we stayed in Perth to celebrate Lucas’s 6^th Birthday with a day at Matilda Bay, caught up with one of Hayley’s friends from London (Rick) and his kids (in Leederville where Hayley had the best Strawberry ice-cream “ever” at Gusto Gelato), took Fern and her kids (Aron, Oli and Katey) out for a wonderful Chinese meal and visited the wonderful Scitech (a hands on interactive museum with a planetarium).

We had all enjoyed being in Perth so much (and Chelsea had convinced us she was raising a Turkey in the backyard) that we decided to loop back for Christmas. Originally we had planned to be near Adelaide for Christmas, but after some quick discussions and adjustments, we worked out a Southern WA loop, taking in Margaret River, Esperance and the farm as well as Albany and Denmark before returning to Perth for the festive period. Hayley has some very strong family ties and fond memories of Perth, not only having being born there, but also having lots of landmarks and childhood recollections of some great times, in particular with her dear Auntie Eileen. Taking me on a trip down her memory lane we visited Hammersley Street, where Auntie Eileen and her sisters all lived within a 500m radius. Studying the virtually unchanged outside we wondered whether the inside of the house had changed much since the property had been sold. Having done a similar thing in Ilfracombe (UK), where I lived for a few childhood years, I said we should go and knock on the door and see if the new owners would let us take a quick look inside. When the door opened the lady (who had just delivered twins but loved a chat!) was only too happy to let Hayley take a trip down memory lane and help her recollections of what had been where. While much of the house had changed internally it still held enough wonderful memories (including the cricket pitch bathroom) to bring a few tears to Hayley’s eyes as she fondly remembered all the fun times they had experienced in that house…

After a busy but wonderful stay it was time to welcome our next visitor who was coming to catch up with us again having visited in Tasmania and Alice Springs. Normally we would have been already set up in Margaret River, but this time around Nana was keen to experience the whole caravanning way of life, including the travelling and setting up process! After picking her up from the airport (where we saw Adriano Zumbo arrive for the Margaret River “Gourmet Escape” which was on the next weekend) we hitched up the van and took off on our 4 hour drive to the Taunton Valley Farmstay. After being squeezed into the back of the car for a few hours I think Nana was happy when we finally got there and after setting up the van and annex we were just in time to participate in the daily feeding of the friendly farm animals, which included goats, bullocks, donkeys, sheep, cows and a couple of pigs (although only one of the pigs was friendly!). It was much colder in Margret River than it had been in Perth so we were glad that Nana had brought enough warm clothes to cope with what were some pretty cool nights out in the annex! Over the next week animal feeding, followed by toasting marshmallows on the fire, because our nightly ritual and it was amazing to see just how much the kids loved feeding time – you would have thought that they might get a bit tired of it after a while (it was the same each time), but they were just as keen and excited on the last night as they had been on the first!

For our first full day with Nana we were up early and held a planning session in a local café where the Mums enjoyed great coffee while the kids had some tasty treats and I enjoyed sparkling water on tap! After stopping in at the visitor centre to book some tickets for the Gourmet Escape (held at Leeuwin Estate) we headed south through the beautiful Karri Tree forests, towards Augusta. Just off the coast from the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse is the point where two oceans meet – the Indian Ocean meets the Southern Ocean – and nobody knew quite what to expect when we got there.

The lighthouse itself, which is located at the south westerly tip of Australia, is not only a stunning feature in this very rugged landscape, but it also provides an amazing insight into the craftsmanship of the time and the hardship that the early lighthouse keepers had to endure. We were lucky enough to jump onto a guided tour which was just starting as we arrived (“just in time travelling!”) and the tour guide filled us in on the fascinating history of the area and lighthouse including the work required to build and run the lighthouse and its piercing beam (which has an intensity of one million candles and shines over the surrounding sea and landscape for nearly 50 kilometres). From the top (which is incredibly windy but worth it!) you get to see the amazing sculptured lamp as well as a wonderful view of the surrounding area, including where the two oceans bash into each other as the two opposing forces join into one.  Until 1982 this lighthouse ran a kerosene burner, which involved a roster of three lighthouse keepers heading up the 172 stairs every few hours with enough Kerosene to keep the lamp lit for the next few hours. As we left the lighthouse we stopped at the old water wheel, which once supplied water to the lighthouse from a fresh spring. The wheel has now calcified from the lime in the water and although it doesn’t look that inviting it’s apparently as fresh as the day the wheel was first erected!

Heading back towards Margaret River and the farm stay we stopped in at the Jewel Cave, one of a number of cave systems in the Margaret River area (makes sense as the road is named “Caves Road”). The Jewel Cave is the largest show cave in WA and home to one of the longest straw stalactites in the world at over 5 metres (which is amazing given how fragile they look!). With its three large caverns the Jewel Cave doesn’t have the same claustrophobic feelings that many small caves can have and although there are low and tight spots in places it’s a wonderful and amazing cave to explore.

We saw some formations in here that we had not seen before and all of us left with a feeling of wonder about how amazingly beautiful nature can be. We saw Karri tree roots mixing with the limestone to form amazing formations, a huge array of differing stalactites and stalagmites as well as helictites, flowstones and shawls and lastly a couple of skeletons (from a Tasmanian Tiger and a Possum). The bones help to age the cave as well as illustrate the harsher side of nature, as these animals became trapped and perished many decades ago. On the way into the cave you see photos of some of the first explorers travelling via boat, but the water table in the cave has dropped now and it’s dry throughout. You do get an insight into those early explorations however when all the lights are shut down and you get immersed in the darkness.  All in all it’s a dazzling visual display of some of nature’s finest and most amazing work and well worth the detour from the more notorious attractions of the region!

Interspersed with some family fun at the “Amaze’n” maze (where we ran the mazes and played a couple of games of Botchie), Xscape Adventure park (where the kids played on trampolines and in the adventure playground for most of the day and I got surprised on the mini-golf course by a water squirting frog!) and at Simmo’s ice-cream factory, we also visited the famous surfing beaches of Margaret River, The Watershed Winery for a beautiful lunch (and a few bottles of their lovely Rosé) and Busselton Jetty.

 

 Busselton Jetty is an amazing 1.8km jetty that runs out through crystal clear water and features an Underwater Observatory which takes you 8m under the surface to marvel at the underwater landscapes. There is a train which runs along the jetty but we decided to do the walk out and then catch the train back. On the walk out we saw newborn seagulls resting on one of the platforms. One of them had just fallen into the water and had to be rescued by a passer-by. After returning the baby to its rather precarious nest the mother gave it the once over and then continued as if nothing had happened! I expect this is like parenting in the 70’s if any of my parents stories are true!

The Underwater Observatory was a fascinating concrete cylinder which descended 8 metres to the ocean floor with various lookouts at different levels as you descend the staircase. At different levels you could see tropical and sub-tropical corals, sponges, fish and crabs. The crabs living towards the top of the jetty’s pylons soon gave way to a vast array of corals and fish life at the deeper depths. There are over 300 different marine species that live beneath the jetty and it’s often described (mainly by their own PR guys!) as Australia’s greatest artificial reef. It was a wonderful experience and although the photos don’t do the colours justice it was a great insight into the vibrant life under the surface (no wonder diving is so popular!).

As we came out of the observatory Mum bumped into one of her favourite chefs, Rick Stein, who was in town for the Gourmet Escape weekend. Most of the internationally renowned chefs were spending the weekend at Leeuwin Estate as well as hosting dinners or special functions (Rick Steins was at the end of the Busselton Jetty) and the whole region was bustling with “foodies.” Catching the train back from the Bussleton Jetty we got to check in on the seagull baby who seemed to be doing fine as well as see dolphins in the beautiful water surrounding the jetty. A late lunch of fish and chips at the end of the Jetty, followed by an ice cream at Simmo’s and then a swim at Meelup beach completed a wonderful day!

The next day Hayley and I were looking forward to heading to Leeuwin Estate for the second day of the Gourmet Escape, but Hayley woke up feeling unwell and didn’t fancy a day out in the sun with rich foods and wine, so Nana stepped in (as soon as she heard the word wine!) and Hayley bravely volunteered to stay at home with the kids. It was a warm day for a change in “Margs” but we had a great time meeting up with Leanne and watching demonstrations and discussions with celebrities such as Matt Preston, Rick Stein and Marco Pierre-White along with many more up and coming chefs involved in the weekend. Our favourite demonstration was a hilarious show with Rick Stein and his son Jack, who now runs the Stein “empire”, regaling stories of growing up, cooking and living with a famous father. Beautiful wines, a multitude of craft beers and wonderful food plates combined to produce a great day out, even if the heat and flies were also out in force. Fortunately the venue is beautiful and well shaded and being on the west coast enjoys an afternoon breeze which flows in and cools things off a bit!  

After a lazy day with a bit of R&R, Mum offered to have the kids so Hayley and I could enjoy a wine tour of the region (as Hayley had missed out on the Gourmet Escape). Jumping at the chance we booked it in and the next morning we were picked up at 9:30am to set off on our tasting day. The way the vineyards are laid out we started with our first wine tasting before 10am (it’s not that easy to get enthusiastic that early!) and by lunchtime we were certainly feeling like some food. Fortunately, after visits to Watershed and Leeuwin Estate for morning tastings, we found ourselves at Voyager Estate for what was a delicious lunch at their award winning restaurant.

 

After lunch we enjoyed visits and samples at the Margaret River Chocolate Company, Bettenays, Ollio Bello as well as the cheese factory. It was great for Hayley and I to have some quality time together and the tour was a great way of sampling the region, although we did suggest maybe they could mix the wine tastings with the food rather than the bulk of tastings first (although maybe that’s the way they have found works best to increase sales!).

With a most enjoyable week under our belts I drove Mum back to Perth to do a spot of Christmas shopping for the kids as well as catch her flight home and Hayley took the opportunity to spend some more time with Leanne at some of the beautiful local beaches. On my return we had a great evening out at the Colonial Brewing company, enjoying some beer while the kids played in the massive outdoor playground.

It was an enjoyable visit to “Margs” and we had a great time on the farm and looking around at all of the local attractions. In keeping with the farm experience we were heading to Jerdacuttup and Uncle Tim’s farm next, for some real farming and plenty more animals! We had even bought extra carrots in preparation!