I guess they don’t give you heavy weather warnings unless they are pretty sure they know what to expect and so it was I didn’t find myself waking up in Tasmania after all, but rather just a little while later, as the Spirit of Tasmania headed out of the protection of the harbour and into some heavy swells. It wasn’t so much the rhythmic rocking from side to side, or the heavy thumps as the bow crashed through the swell, it was more the anticipation of what was coming next. In a somewhat superfluous effort to keep things under control, my body (I guess it’s a bit of a control freak) seemed to like anticipating the next rock or roll and then trying to adjust to suit. The issue is that the anticipation is not entirely unconscious, so I found myself in a very relaxed state waiting for what was coming next. I certainly wouldn’t call it sleeping and with April calling out as she rolled from side to side, I climbed off my bunk and got into her bed to give her a cuddle. Before too long we were both way too hot (her and I are the heaters in the family) and after things hadn’t so much calmed down as become more consistent, we all fell back to sleep in our respective beds until the announcement at 5:15am informed us that we had half an hour to get ready and head to our vehicles..
I was a bit nervous as we approached the Jeep. Firstly, they had warned us that alarms have a tendency to go off in swells and that before they locked the vehicle bays you should disable your alarm to avoid flattening your battery (as I was trying to get April into bed at the time and didn’t want to leave her alone I just had to ignore that warning). Secondly, as we had never left the van hitched up overnight before, I wasn’t quite sure what impact this may have. Adding to the pressure was being first in line and knowing that if we couldn’t start then it was going to be a long morning for everyone! In the end there was nothing to worry about, we started first time and led the procession off the gangway and onto terra firma.
Greeted with a welcome pack (we need two please so the kids won’t fight over them) we headed towards Kelso, which we had decided represented a good place to stay given we were meeting up with my Mum the following day in Launceston. The beauty of the countryside was evident immediately, even if the conditions with the sun rising into my eyes and the road scattered with more road kill than I had seen in a long time, made for less than optimal driving conditions. Upon arrival, which was pre-office hours let alone pre-arrival time, we launched into a second breakfast and before too long were on site and set up (the annex as well) in anticipation of the next few days and Nana’s visit!
Armed with the “Tamar Triple Pass” we had our next few days planned out, so after Nana had arrived we headed to the first of the local area attractions, Seahorse World, where everything about the fascinating life of seahorses was explained to us. We also got to feed them, hold them (and other sea creatures) and generally it was great fun and very interesting! Luckily when the Hermit crab came out to say hello to Hayley she was holding him over the tank, otherwise he would have been looking for another home much sooner!

Seahorse World – this one is the Sea Dragon.. Males deliver the babies in the seahorse partnership, often over 1,000 babies at a time!

Hermie, before everyone started picking him up!

A close escape! Stick your head out to the wrong person and you’ll be dropped on the floor with a scream!

Seahorse wrangler! She was actually vey gentle!
Across the pier from Seahorse World is Platypus House, where you can get up close and personal to Tasmanian Platypus and Echidna, both of which are native to Tasmania. Platypus are a strangely compelling creature, kind of weird looking (most of the time I was wondering how their bills stayed on their heads although I didn’t think it right to ask such a profound question!) and yet kind of cute and cuddly at the same time. We had heard lots of stories of being able to see platypus in the rivers throughout Tassie, but were keen to see them up close also. We watched them fossicking and swimming around and the cuteness element grew on me, who cares how those bills stay on, they seem such friendly natured little guys… Platypus house also has some rescued Echidna’s that come and interact with the visitors at feeding time. These truly are fascinating creatures and the kids loved getting up close to these bundles of fun and spikes and watching them running, playing and eating around our feet.

Platypus – fast and not easy to take a photo of (see him, at the back?)

Feeding time with a difference…
That night Nana would be the first guest in our new “home”, so while the kids played around the park (the campground was also a nature reserve so there were plenty of animals around in addition to the jumping pillow and playground) we set up the air mattress and softened the impact of sleeping outside with the special thank you Champagne from my old work that had been chilling in the fridge.

Thanking you thanking me – isn’t that an ABBA song?
The Beaconsfield Mine tour (the third attraction of the triple pass) is a very interesting and interactive exhibition, where you can learn about the history of the area, clock on and off from the mining shaft (ringing the bell and tagging the board that represents whose underground) as well as explore early mining methods and mining equipment. None of us could believe that 9 years had passed since the tragic death of Larry Knight and the dramatic rescue of Brant Webb and Todd Russell, both of whom are still around town today and are heavily featured in the exhibition. The town is so small you wonder how they managed to cope with all the worlds media that descended upon them during the days of the rescue. The exhibition focuses on mining and the importance of mining to the town (the shaft is clearly visible from the main street) but also pays tribute to the rescue efforts and bravery of those two miners who eventually made it out after two weeks underground. You get to wriggle into a reconstruction of the space they had and start to appreciate how tough they must have been to make it through what would have seemed a hopeless eternity.

Beaconsfield Mine shaft – visible from the main street

Its an eerie feeling, tagging on and off, the same board that was the centre of the worlds attention in 2006

This is where the media were shooting from
Over the rest of Nana’s visit Hayley and I managed to sneak in a very welcome tasting at Goaty Hill Wines as well as a relaxing dinner for two (most appreciated after being a foursome for so long). We walked the Cataract Gorge in Launceston (although we didn’t brave a swim in the pool despite April’s pleas!). The Gorge is a pretty spectacular place and amazingly accessible from town. We followed it up with stunning fish and chips on the river and then back home to hunt for wombats! You could see the evidence of the wombats around the van in the mornings (little square pellets – who knows how!), but as yet we had not set our eyes on one of them in the wild.

Cataract Gorge in Launceston

Crossing the river on the chairlift, starting to rack up chairlift rides like ice-creams!

Cataract Gorge – the bridge over the river

Please can we swim in this icy cold water, its not that cold see?
Braving the cold and armed with all our portable lighting (mainly consisting of any available head torches) we set off in the late afternoon to have a wander around. Despite a few skeptical comments from some of the party we hung in there and just as we were about to get back to the van we saw some scurrying near the playground. Wandering closer we found two wombats doing whatever it is that wombats do. From that point on, once the first sighting had been completed, we saw wombats all over the place, beside the road, around the campground, even in the middle of the day – it felt like we had earned our wombat viewing pass and now the once secret world was opened up to us!

Head torch – check, Wombats – ?????

Check! And from then on they were everywhere!
Bidding farewell to Nana we moved on to Stanley and its famous “Nut”. Known for gale force winds as well as the beautiful view from the top, we planned a short visit and ended up spending a couple of days looking around the town, sampling the local food and walking the top of the Nut (notice I say walking the top of the Nut rather than walking to the top of the Nut – it was hard enough to get the kids motivated for the walk around the top, we had to encourage them by taking the chairlift!). Beautiful views, interesting plant life and inquisitive Pademelons make the trek around the top very interesting and you can certainly see why the area has a reputation as “the edge of the world.” Only realising later that we had not actually taken a photo of the Nut itself we are lucky that Denver and April don’t go anywhere without getting postcards!

View from “The Nut” – the photo doesn’t do justice to the wind!

Friendly Pademelons had found a little enclave out of the elements
From Stanley the original plan was to head to Strahan but the weather was closing in, so we decided to try our luck on the East coast instead. Packing up early we were headed to Bicheno (and I quote the information leaflet when I say) “a picturesque town famous for its sandy beaches, mild climate and sunny weather”. You can see why it’s one of Tasmania’s favourite destinations, not only is the local bakery a major award winner but the beaches, blowhole and proximity to the Freycinet Peninsula make it a wonderful spot to spend a few days (even if the mild climate and sunny weather seemed to be taking a holiday of their own!). You can see I was pretty impressed with the bakery by the fact I have listed it before the world renowned Wineglass Bay, Coles Bay and the Freycinet National Park. Although Denver’s schoolwork filled up a couple of days as we worked to catch up with what was due, we still had time to enjoy the town (where April made her first successful “crossing” of monkey bars much to her delight), visit the blowhole when it was at its explosive best and go on a huge walk along the beaches and beachfront tracks, picking a belly load of blackberries from the wild vines as we made our way towards Diamond Island (which if you get the timing right you can walk to across the sandbank).

Bicheno waterfront with Blackberry vines just moments from the beach

On our way to Diamond island – just not quite mild enough to get in!
We were determined to get the kids more accustom to bushwalking, and trekking through the Freycinet National park was a good way to show them that not only is nature beautiful, but at the end of some effort you can be rewarded with a real sense of achievement alongside some spectacular scenery. While willing participants in the first hike to the Wineglass Bay Lookout, it took some more coaxing (in the form of a chupa chup) to get them out of the car for the second hike of the day, fortunately that was only a short but interesting walk around the lighthouse at Cape Tourville.

Wineglass Bay lookout – well done kids!

Taking a break on the way back!
Completing the Bicheno experience was a walking tour to see Penguins in their natural habitats. Although not Penguin “season” (most of the babies had hatched, grown and headed out to sea until the next summer) there were still a few stragglers that we managed to see. Hayley and Denver had the best experience of the evening. After April had pulled the plug due to the torrential rain (her and I returned to some cover in a shed), Hayley and Denver had front row seats while a mother brought a catch back to her baby. Just a few feet from where they stood the mother then proceeded to feed her hungry baby, an amazing spectacle which had everyone watching transfixed.
I had visited Port Arthur some twenty years prior on a family holiday and was interested to see how my memory of the area was holding up (given I have been on some holidays and experiences I cannot remember at all I was pretty impressed that I had any sort of vision of what we would find there!). When the caravan park told me that there is no town of Port Arthur it knocked my confidence a little, but when we first strolled down the hill and took in the main Penitentiary building I knew that this building was the memory I had, despite the additional information and museum facilities that had been added since.

The Penitentiary at Port Arthur, from the boat tour
Port Arthur is the primary tourist attraction in Tasmania and also the site of one of the worst massacres in Australian history (1996, which was a year or so after we came on our family holiday). A UNESCO World Heritage Site with fascinating stories of its convict history as well as the physical and psychological punishments inflicted on prisoners housed there, it’s now a beautiful setting and a great day out, but it certainly wouldn’t have been much fun for the prisoners sent here (some prisoners were as young as 9!)… With a grounds tour and boat cruise around “Isle of the Dead” and “Point Puer Boys Prison” to start the day we wandered ruins, beautiful gardens and the a series of interactive displays that had the kids fascinated by life in these bygone times. They struggled to fully comprehend the impact of the tiny cells, physiological punishments (including the separate prison where silence was used to “reform” the prisoners but generally just ended up with them next door in the asylum) and horrible conditions would have on people, but I am sure they are happy they live in these times rather than those!
On the way to Port Arthur is the “Un Zoo” which was originally established as a Tasmanian Devil conservation park. The Tasmanian Devil has a fascial tumor throughout much of its wild population which has reduced numbers in the wild considerably. The long term goal of the conservation programs across Tasmania and the mainland is to build a diverse gene pool of some 500+ tumor free devils, from which a population can then be re-introduced into the wild to avoid the extinction of the species. The Tasman peninsular is one of the naturally occurring areas of tumor free Devils, due to the nature of its geography, but I was shocked to hear they estimate there are only 30 or so Devils on this stretch of land. For visitors, the Un Zoo is a good chance to see Devils in open and interactive enclosures as well as see their natural behaviours as they sleep, play and feed. The kids were fascinated by the Devils and the 11 different noises they make (car trips for the next few days consisted of Devil noises, none of which are particularly “tunefull!), the exhibits were well planned and the carers very passionate about the animals and their conservation.

Open wide – nope, no tumour here!

Noise effects = snarl, retch, groan, snarl etc
The Un Zoo is laid out in expansive grounds and the talks and feedings take place where the animals are rather than in enclosures. The kids loved feeding the Kangaroos and Pademelons and were willing participants in the free bird flight show (at least until the bird took the money from their hands!).

Feeding time! Watch out for “greedy” – want to guess what he will do?

Hey, give me my money back!
To explore the region around Hobart we chose to follow Denver’s school friend Jasmine (and her brother Eli and parents Julia and Matt) who had travelled Tasmania during the same time (although unfortunately we always seems to be on virtually opposite sides so we never actually met up!). Jasmine had left a letter (and as it turns out some Skittles!) for Denver at the Huon Valley Caravan Park, which is a working farm with cows, sheep, pigs, ducks, geese, Bertie the goat as well as Badge the working dog. Being Saturday we dropped Hayley at the Salamanca Markets on our way through town (yes, a bit dangerous I know!) and went to the farm to set up the van and collect the letter. Kylie Barker was coming to spend a few days with us later in the week so we also set up the annex and then it was time to pick Hayley up and get back before the 4pm milking… Each day the farm had an activity which rotated between shearing the sheep, milking the cow (part of which involves squirting milk directly into your mouth!), feeding the pigs and Badge showing off by rounding the geese around the yard. After the kids made some great friends with twins Julia and Claire they added walking Bertie the goat to these activities (although who was walking who is debatable!).

Sheep sheering, cow milking, pig feeding – all in a normal day at this park!

Who is walking who again?
After a day pottering around the farm and getting supplies for the week we headed to Kettering (gateway to Bruny Island) where friends from primary school, Chris Morgan and his wife and kids had moved years ago after falling in love with the lifestyle and community values. Their beautiful home had great play areas for the kids, fantastic views over the harbour and it was wonderful to catch up with Chris and Kirsty as they painted a very attractive picture of their new lifestyle. It sounded fantastic and I could see Hayley battling internally between the fantastic sounding lifestyle and the need for warmer weather (which I am sure won out in the end!).

Dinner with Chris and family in beautiful Kettering
Trips to the fantastic MONA (only disappointing to the kids because the Poo machine wasn’t working!), Cadbury factory (only disappointing to the kids because they couldn’t eat all the chocolate they wanted) flanked trips to Mt Wellington (where the summit gave a fantastic view over Hobart and surrounds but was only 2 degrees!) as well as the Tahune Airwalk. The Tahune Airwalk is a spectacular tree canopy walk on the edge of 1.6 million hectares of World Heritage Listed forest where you can see Huon pines, Australia’s longest living tree (up to 3,000 years), which as they only grow around 1mm per year is probably a good thing! In addition to the canopy walk there is a suspended handglider over the Huon river which is not for the faint-hearted and some great forest floor walks. After a quick lunch we headed back to Huonville to meet up with Kylie who was coming to spend a few days with us.

MONA – fat Ferrari but no poo machine!

Denver with his “bino’s” and a thumbs up from the Mt Wellington viewing tower!

Mt Wellington.. Denver and I braved the cold, Hayley and April returned to the car to warm up!

Tahune Airwalk – high up in the trees

Airwalk over and around the tree’s

Handgliding fun! couldn’t convince Hayley to give it a go!
The next day Hayley and Kylie caught the ferry to Bruny Island for a couple of days of exploring, cheese, whisky, chocolate and oysters. Perhaps it was the combination of the above, or the rocking motion of the boat itself (Hayley’s version has the boat going up and down, side to side and round and round), but the boat trip around the island to see some of the animals and spectacular scenery generated motions that even “Quell” couldn’t stop! Bruny Island is just beautiful and it was a shame that time didn’t allow us all to spend much longer in this special part of the world.

Bruny Island boat trip. memorable for a number of reasons!
After a night out at the local Willie Smiths Cider House (it’s no exaggeration that the apples in Tasmania are the best in the world!) Kylie was off to pick up Lauren, Amanda and Natalie and meet us later that morning at Salamanca markets. After exploring the markets, buying a candle with massaging oil, trying some of the latest fashions in headwear as well as sampling the organic jam doughnuts, we met with the girls for lunch before they headed off to their friends and we headed back to the van to get ready for the trip to Cradle Mountain.

Market fashion!
An early start and a lesson learned – the navigation in the car is not necessarily programmed to know our preferences for bitumen! On the trip to Cradle Mountain we followed the “quickest” route, which took us over 60km of unsealed road. I was quite happy to get the experience under our belts as we do plan on getting off the sealed roads along the way, I would have just preferred to have planned it in! Maybe slightly less reliance on technology and some more old fashioned map reading is in order in the future! There is no doubt a life lesson in there somewhere for us all!
Squeezing into our site at Cradle Mountain (well in fact we could only get halfway in due to the layout of the trees but at least it was not a thoroughfare!) the wet weather was starting to become a bit repetitive, but in the interests of not dampening our spirits we headed out in search of the local pub for a warming meal and beer. The next day the shuttle took us up to Dove Lake to get our first glimpse of Cradle Mountain and with plans to return the following day for Hayley’s birthday, we headed back to explore some of the other walks and tracks in the park. As luck would have it the weather turned for Hayley’s birthday and after a morning celebration we took off for the hike around Dove Lake, a beautiful 6k round trip that the kids loved (at least until we hit the 5.5k mark!). What a great way to spend your birthday!

Dove lake – Cradle Mountain is in the clouds!

Happy Birthday Mummy! We love you!

Dove Lake track on Hayley’s birthday – 6km round trip!

Great views!

We made it!
Next we had a couple of days R&R in Sheffield (we parked the van in the carpark and stayed in a family room with actual separate bedrooms!) as part of Hayley’s present. We visited “Tasmazia” a theatrical series of mazes and scale buildings accompanied by a pancake parlour and Burnie for some paper making at the Burnie Makers Workshop. We got to make some special paper with Wombat poo (“its square don’t you know” April tells the group) and learnt the art of making paper with various “art” effects.

Tazmazia – an entertaining name and day!

Pancakes for lunch – we must do this again!

Wombat Poo Paper making – well, your not eating it are you!
Burnie was our last stop on our way back to Devonport to board the Spirit of Tasmania for our return trip. Like most of the travelers we met along the way, 5 weeks just wasn’t enough time to do Tasmania properly, but unfortunately the heavy bookings for the Spirit mean it’s not easy to extend your trip. We will certainly be back one day, to cover the bits we missed as well as revisit some of the special places in this part of the world (which would be pretty much everywhere!).
Being the Easter long weekend the Spirit of Tasmania was running double crossings, which meant our boarding time was even later, and further delays in the incoming journey meant we didn’t get into our cabin until 10pm – at least this time there was not the same concerns over the Jeep and van, all that remained was to see just how much “anticipation” the body had planned for this leg, but I was quietly confident of a calm and uneventful crossing!

Night boarding on the Spirit of Tasmania – bye bye!